Sunday, March 6, 2011

à la Film Noir

Salut cheries :))

I know my title is grammatically incorrect... excuse moi. This is how we, Americans, would say it, and I know we screw up everything, so please do not mind. In this post, I will be fulfilling a request for dark lipstick maquillage inspired by Film Noir and Gucci's recent take on it, as well as show you how to balance it with eye makeup. Ooo-La-la!!! For the dark lip, I did three eye looks, and I'll include the other two in my next post so this one doesn't have to be super long. For now, check out my maquillage du jour, let me know what you think, and keep your requests coming!!!


Maryam Maquillage


Here are the pics that were sent to me:

Wish I could dress like this every day!!! 

THE LOOK: I couldn't find any close-ups of the makeup featured at Gucci's show, so I decided to go by what I thought would be an appropriate eye look for the fashion and the lip color. I was inspired by the first two outfits in the photos above and created a sleek graphic cat eye in a wash of yellow shadow, like the last dress. I contoured my face slightly, to chisel out the features and create that classic Film Noir silhouette. 

THE FACE: matte and velvety. To achieve this, use a primer to minimize your pores and a matte mineral foundation. You know the ones I like: Laura Mercier mineral foundation primer and Bare Minerals matte foundation. For this look, it is also important to get rid of any darkness under your eyes. I used Lancome maquicomplet concealer in medium bisque, and set it with a matte peach highlighter. The peach neutralizes the purplish/bluish dark circles and makes them disappear out of sight!
Highlight:  Apply the same highlighter on the tops of your cheekbones, down your nose, and between the brows, to bring attention to our focal points for the Film Noir look.
Contour: Using a matte bronzer, contour your cheekbones, by sucking in your cheeks and following the groove. Make sure to blend the harsh line into you hairline. Also, contour the sides of your nose for a slimming effect. 
Blush: Use a rose blush on the apples of the cheeks and blend it with the bronzer.

THE EYES: I used about three different yellow shadows, a bit of copper, and a touch of gold. You don't have to follow all the steps, obviously, just stick to the essentials, which I will mark off with yellow :))

  1. Prime your lids with a shadow primer.
  2. Apply a yellow or white sticky base all over your lid and blend it out with your finger. This is a necessary step for all yellow shadows, because they are usually not very pigmented.
  3. Apply the yellow shadow all over your lid  and up to the brow by packing it on with a flat brush.
  4. Take a darker yellow and apply it to the outer corner of your eye and under the eye.
  5. Take a clean stiff dome brush and blend out the harsh edges. 
  6. Apply a bit of copper shadow under your bottom lash line to make it pop.
  7. Add a golden yellow shadow right above the crease for a bit of shimmer.
  8. Line the top lash line with a black gel or liquid liner. Go to my post  The Purrfect Cat-Eye for a quick tutorial on the cat eyeliner.
  9. Take the remaining color on the brush and line under the bottom lash line to sharpen it.
  10. Curl your lashes and apply two coats of mascara to the top and bottom lashes. 
  11. Add half lashes for an extra lift.
  12. Line the bottom waterline with a nude, peach or beige pencil to pop the eyes some more.
THE EYEBROWS: Prominent and angled. I perfected the shape by filling in sparse areas and extended the brows a bit farther than where they would naturally end. I set my eyebrows with hair wax.

THE LIPS: I used the new double ended Maybelline Superstay 16 hour lipcolor in wine. I have to say this stuff is serious. It doesn't go anywhere... no really, if anyone knows how to remove this stuff, please let me know. It took me about 10 minutes of intense labor using various products and still I woke up the next day with dark crevices... not cool. The color, however, is surprisingly nice on my skin tone. 

DARK LIP TIPS: To keep in mind :))
  1. Dark lip color generally works best on darker skin and can be worn as an everyday look. If you're lighter, like moi, you can still wear it, but it will be a dramatic night time look.
  2. I wouldn't recommend dark lipstick to anyone whose lips are very thin. Dark lipstick will make your mouth appear even smaller.
  3. If you have a large or wide mouth, dark lipstick can be tricky as well. It will bring attention to your mouth, making other features seem smaller in comparison. This can work if you have big eyes, but if your eyes are small like mine, you may want to be careful.
  4. If you get complimented on your lips all the time and you know you have beautiful full lips, then this is the look for you. Wear it and be proud!! My lips are on the small side, so I don't generally go for the dramatic dark lip :))
  5. Be aware of your coloring. I'm a medium with yellow undertones, so rust or brown lip colors tend to make me look extra yellow, like I have jaundice. Instead, I go for wine and burgundy colors that have a blue undertone.
  6. Dark lips tend to age... I'm in my 20's so maybe it doesn't apply to me as much, however, if you think that it may apply to you, stick to more neutral colors.
  7. Dark lipstick will make your teeth look whiter :D soooo...
Smile more!!

Not exactly Gucci, but my sweater is J. Crew a la Michelle Obama

Yellow Shadow, Dark Lips, Fresh French

Dark lips are cool, but look how fresh a pale mouth is!!!

I still love this look... the yellow eyeshadow keeps it modern :)


Maryam Maquillage

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